Really easy to use, and incredibly durable so far.
If you like the protection of poly and apply it without incident, then use it over your stain, not oil. Choose accordingly. Removing paste wax (that’s over tung oil), Expand your workholding with a spoon mule, Complete Illustrated Guide to Woodworking USB, From the Editor: Publishing during a pandemic, Save 56% off the magazine newsstand price. It works fine.
Top it with 2-3 coats of a good wax. A mixture of boiled linseed oil, turpentine and polyurethane.
Add the General Finishes Arm-R-Seal to the list of varnishes to try. The look will still be a close to the surface finish, but it will have more durability. Tung Oil. You did it right.
How will lacquer work over tung oil? We have created these special content collections organized to give you a deep dive into a range of topics that matter. Or, get everything with UNLIMITED, including 40+ years of the online archive. Tung oil and polyurethane give a warm, natural finish. I've also just finished a piece out of walnut and alder and have three coats of tung oil on it. So, try some wax on your coffee table. So linseed oil would be the clear budget choice. Buy a good book(s) on the subject and try some other finishes. Not as durable as a straight varnish/poly. BEcause of marketability--and forums that don't tell you about other options--like "varnish" without polyurethanes.Gretchen.
Overall, it all comes down to what you want. One of My Favorite Finishes is Tung Oil Currently one of my favorite finishes is tung oil. Poly is best applied using very thinned out coats like 50-50 with thinner, and wiped down. I built a tiger maple step stool a little while ago that I needed to have a near-indestructible finish without looking plastic-y. At the same time, however, tung oil is far more expensive. Arm-R-Seal is the product that David Marks uses on his show when he talks about applying a "tung oil" finish. Tung oil finish needs to cure at least 36 hours before topcoating. Click for full details. Behlen / Mohawk also make some really good varnishes. Poly is no more difficult than other varnishes. Danish Oil Vs. BLO Vs. Tung Oil I'm in Houston, TX so I can't take you up on it. Poly is a great finish too. If you like the way oil looks and feels and its ease of application, then use oil.
It is the single best finish for water but as noted it scratches and I will add it is impossible to repair and can be dificult to apply (it streaks, there are brush marks and puddles if you are not careful). My old standby finish was Deft Oil, which was great, but they stopped making it so I have been looking at some other options. Your oil finish is fine. If you're willing, next time try Waterlox (.com) original varnish. But what actual product?
© 2020 The Taunton Press, Inc. All rights reserved. Well, I used the potassium dichloride on the coffee table and it looked great. Chris Schwarz has worked out of his tool chests for decades, and finds them to be the perfect combination of protection, access, and flexibility. Since all varnishes are cross-linking finishes, they're all equally difficult to strip if that's an issue. Was it really just pure tung oil?
Even after that, the oil will provide you with a proper finish. 2. So why not use poly when you want or need the durability? Carnuba is the hardest. My question is: Can I use poly or something with good protection on top of the tung oil? I know you said you used tung oil. Poly actually scratches more than a non-poly varnish. This just gets more and more interesting. The beauty is, the more coats you apply, the more protection you offer the wood. And they actually contain some varnish too! One example is Shellac, which I use as a sealer coat between water based stain and other finishes. The resins in poly have the best resistance to water, heat, chemicals, and scratching. I am not being critical, please, but merely suggesting that you educate yourself.
Boiled linseed oil is common as a wood finish, but contains some potentially hazardous drying compounds. Wood will retain its moisture and stay looking soft and beautiful only when coated with a protective layer of finish product. May I ask just what you actually used to apply to your piece? KDo has some good points. Subscribe to Fine Woodworking today and get our lowest price of the season - only $20 for one year. Pure tung will take a lot longer to harden, probably at least a week or two until it … If you're anywhere near Kansas City I have a few gallons of P&L 38 left over from a large job that I'd let go cheap, since they are just taking up space in my finishing room. It penetrates into the wood, unlike a film finish, which sits on the surface. But if you’re short on budget, linseed will deliver decent-enough results. If the table is in a warm, well lit space, the oil should be cured enough in a week so you can apply a more durable finish over it. I think it's readily available elsewhere too. If you actually used pure tung oil, I still recommend going over it with a product that is an oil/varnish combination, or using a wiping varnish (just dilute any varnish 50-50 with solvent), making sure to wipe off any excess. This is the Real Milk Paint PTO-G Pure Tung Oil is another best tung oil that is 100% pure. Leaving the wood in its natural state, however, does not mean that you should leave it unprotected.
That is what I do with your wonderfull piece. But I know of no practical reason why one would finish a piece with oil, then top it with poly.
Thanks for the help. UNLIMITED membership - Get access to it all. And if the inexpensive poly finish is built up very thick, it will look like plastic. This is the easiest finish I have applied, and it builds up a fairly nice protective finish after several coats. Tung oil (real and pure) yields a beautiful finish both in sheen and water resistance. I wanted to see how each finish changes the colour of pine when I first apply it, and after a few weeks exposed to sunlight. I thought it would work fine since oil and poly are mixed together in some commercially available products. Tung oil is a plant-based oil used as a wood finish. How easy is a varnish to repair or touch-up? If you can smell it, its not dry. My point would be--you can get the durability without the plasticity-look. There is and always has been NON-poly varnish which gives wonderful warm depth to the finish and the wood.Gretchen. Once I have finished applying the oil, I will move the table inside the house where it is warmer, and give it time to cure before applying the poly. It IS that folks just don't realize that there is an option that is beautiful. If it messes up, it is one of the easiest finishes to repair, just a bit of sandpaper and more oil. Typically a Danish oil consists of a mixture of tung oil and varnish. Concusion. It's a poly that also gives the wood a nice look. I usually wait a week or so, but the oil will take months to fully dry (and stop stinking) under the poly. Poly has a reputation for looking like plastic, but that is dependant on the brand and application technique. I use the wipe-on method. Gel varnish is poly I'd be pretty sure. UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month. I will post a picture when done. I look forward to seeing the finished product! I usually put on three coats of this, and a coat or two of straight gloss poly on the most exposed surface (table top etc.). I wanted to test how each of these three finishes looks and feel like on pine over time. needed to have a near-indestructible finish without looking plastic-y. Danish oil: Smooth and easy. Enter now for your chance to win more than $2,000 worth of woodworking equipment from Woodpeckers.
So that leaves me with three different oil-finish for pine. You don’t have any additives or distillates in this solution. If you actually used pure tung oil, I still recommend going over it with a product that is an oil/varnish combination, or using a wiping varnish (just dilute any varnish 50-50 with solvent), making sure to wipe off any excess. I think it's because poly is the most durable of the varnishes. I love the way the tung oil brings out the grain but I want more protection for a coffee table. Pratt & Lambert's 38 is a great interior varnish and has been for decades, as are McCloskey's products. But the real advantage comes from how strong it makes the wood in the long term – preventing splits, cracks, and warps.
If you like the protection of poly and apply it without incident, then use it over your stain, not oil. Choose accordingly. Removing paste wax (that’s over tung oil), Expand your workholding with a spoon mule, Complete Illustrated Guide to Woodworking USB, From the Editor: Publishing during a pandemic, Save 56% off the magazine newsstand price. It works fine.
Top it with 2-3 coats of a good wax. A mixture of boiled linseed oil, turpentine and polyurethane.
Add the General Finishes Arm-R-Seal to the list of varnishes to try. The look will still be a close to the surface finish, but it will have more durability. Tung Oil. You did it right.
How will lacquer work over tung oil? We have created these special content collections organized to give you a deep dive into a range of topics that matter. Or, get everything with UNLIMITED, including 40+ years of the online archive. Tung oil and polyurethane give a warm, natural finish. I've also just finished a piece out of walnut and alder and have three coats of tung oil on it. So, try some wax on your coffee table. So linseed oil would be the clear budget choice. Buy a good book(s) on the subject and try some other finishes. Not as durable as a straight varnish/poly. BEcause of marketability--and forums that don't tell you about other options--like "varnish" without polyurethanes.Gretchen.
Overall, it all comes down to what you want. One of My Favorite Finishes is Tung Oil Currently one of my favorite finishes is tung oil. Poly is best applied using very thinned out coats like 50-50 with thinner, and wiped down. I built a tiger maple step stool a little while ago that I needed to have a near-indestructible finish without looking plastic-y. At the same time, however, tung oil is far more expensive. Arm-R-Seal is the product that David Marks uses on his show when he talks about applying a "tung oil" finish. Tung oil finish needs to cure at least 36 hours before topcoating. Click for full details. Behlen / Mohawk also make some really good varnishes. Poly is no more difficult than other varnishes. Danish Oil Vs. BLO Vs. Tung Oil I'm in Houston, TX so I can't take you up on it. Poly is a great finish too. If you like the way oil looks and feels and its ease of application, then use oil.
It is the single best finish for water but as noted it scratches and I will add it is impossible to repair and can be dificult to apply (it streaks, there are brush marks and puddles if you are not careful). My old standby finish was Deft Oil, which was great, but they stopped making it so I have been looking at some other options. Your oil finish is fine. If you're willing, next time try Waterlox (.com) original varnish. But what actual product?
© 2020 The Taunton Press, Inc. All rights reserved. Well, I used the potassium dichloride on the coffee table and it looked great. Chris Schwarz has worked out of his tool chests for decades, and finds them to be the perfect combination of protection, access, and flexibility. Since all varnishes are cross-linking finishes, they're all equally difficult to strip if that's an issue. Was it really just pure tung oil?
Even after that, the oil will provide you with a proper finish. 2. So why not use poly when you want or need the durability? Carnuba is the hardest. My question is: Can I use poly or something with good protection on top of the tung oil? I know you said you used tung oil. Poly actually scratches more than a non-poly varnish. This just gets more and more interesting. The beauty is, the more coats you apply, the more protection you offer the wood. And they actually contain some varnish too! One example is Shellac, which I use as a sealer coat between water based stain and other finishes. The resins in poly have the best resistance to water, heat, chemicals, and scratching. I am not being critical, please, but merely suggesting that you educate yourself.
Boiled linseed oil is common as a wood finish, but contains some potentially hazardous drying compounds. Wood will retain its moisture and stay looking soft and beautiful only when coated with a protective layer of finish product. May I ask just what you actually used to apply to your piece? KDo has some good points. Subscribe to Fine Woodworking today and get our lowest price of the season - only $20 for one year. Pure tung will take a lot longer to harden, probably at least a week or two until it … If you're anywhere near Kansas City I have a few gallons of P&L 38 left over from a large job that I'd let go cheap, since they are just taking up space in my finishing room. It penetrates into the wood, unlike a film finish, which sits on the surface. But if you’re short on budget, linseed will deliver decent-enough results. If the table is in a warm, well lit space, the oil should be cured enough in a week so you can apply a more durable finish over it. I think it's readily available elsewhere too. If you actually used pure tung oil, I still recommend going over it with a product that is an oil/varnish combination, or using a wiping varnish (just dilute any varnish 50-50 with solvent), making sure to wipe off any excess. This is the Real Milk Paint PTO-G Pure Tung Oil is another best tung oil that is 100% pure. Leaving the wood in its natural state, however, does not mean that you should leave it unprotected.
That is what I do with your wonderfull piece. But I know of no practical reason why one would finish a piece with oil, then top it with poly.
Thanks for the help. UNLIMITED membership - Get access to it all. And if the inexpensive poly finish is built up very thick, it will look like plastic. This is the easiest finish I have applied, and it builds up a fairly nice protective finish after several coats. Tung oil (real and pure) yields a beautiful finish both in sheen and water resistance. I wanted to see how each finish changes the colour of pine when I first apply it, and after a few weeks exposed to sunlight. I thought it would work fine since oil and poly are mixed together in some commercially available products. Tung oil is a plant-based oil used as a wood finish. How easy is a varnish to repair or touch-up? If you can smell it, its not dry. My point would be--you can get the durability without the plasticity-look. There is and always has been NON-poly varnish which gives wonderful warm depth to the finish and the wood.Gretchen. Once I have finished applying the oil, I will move the table inside the house where it is warmer, and give it time to cure before applying the poly. It IS that folks just don't realize that there is an option that is beautiful. If it messes up, it is one of the easiest finishes to repair, just a bit of sandpaper and more oil. Typically a Danish oil consists of a mixture of tung oil and varnish. Concusion. It's a poly that also gives the wood a nice look. I usually wait a week or so, but the oil will take months to fully dry (and stop stinking) under the poly. Poly has a reputation for looking like plastic, but that is dependant on the brand and application technique. I use the wipe-on method. Gel varnish is poly I'd be pretty sure. UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month. I will post a picture when done. I look forward to seeing the finished product! I usually put on three coats of this, and a coat or two of straight gloss poly on the most exposed surface (table top etc.). I wanted to test how each of these three finishes looks and feel like on pine over time. needed to have a near-indestructible finish without looking plastic-y. Danish oil: Smooth and easy. Enter now for your chance to win more than $2,000 worth of woodworking equipment from Woodpeckers.
So that leaves me with three different oil-finish for pine. You don’t have any additives or distillates in this solution. If you actually used pure tung oil, I still recommend going over it with a product that is an oil/varnish combination, or using a wiping varnish (just dilute any varnish 50-50 with solvent), making sure to wipe off any excess. I think it's because poly is the most durable of the varnishes. I love the way the tung oil brings out the grain but I want more protection for a coffee table. Pratt & Lambert's 38 is a great interior varnish and has been for decades, as are McCloskey's products. But the real advantage comes from how strong it makes the wood in the long term – preventing splits, cracks, and warps.