We have a forbo vinyl in the kitchen which I love. 2 comments. You can achieve even better results by using a soap-and-water or mineral-oil lubricant with the steel wool or Scotch-Brite.
Leveling and Rubbing I am also building a TV lift cabinet that has crotch mahogany veneers. To achieve that you need to understand the one thing that separates an OK finish from a great one. A Final Word To create the smoothest oil finish possible, sand the second and each subsequent coat while it is still wet with finish (before wiping off) using #600-grit (P1200-grit) sandpaper, as shown above. I've been told that 'old carpet' makes a good buffing material.
The included soap weakens the moisture barrier and makes this layer softer than the finish itself.
To create a more perfect and attractive surface, rub it with #0000 steel wool or gray Scotch-Brite. Double and even triple checked... Also helps its clearly marked on the label , New comments cannot be posted and votes cannot be cast, /r/finishing is a forum that encourages the respectful exchange of wood or metal finishing knowledge and projects, Looks like you're using new Reddit on an old browser. So with rubbing a finish, I suggest you first practice on a scrap piece of veneered plywood to gain confidence. How to Finish a Floor with Pure Tung Oil tutorial. A penetrating finish is one that doesn’t harden, so all the excess has to be wiped off after each coat. I have turned back the clock and used the methods of the period of the house...a mix of pale boiled linseed oil and kero. This is where most folks go wrong with it, they don’t wipe it dry enough and any thick spots won’t dry right. Once the surface is level, sand or rub it with finer and finer grit abrasives until you achieve the sheen you want. Tung oil is usually sold in satin, gloss or high gloss varieties. Subscribe ». Sanding Between Coats After sanding and cleaning the wood surface to remove any previous finish, spread the oil along the grain pattern using a clean, lint-free rag. • Wipe off the excess oil and allow the surface to dry overnight. share. (Though you could skip the sanding and still achieve smoothness at the end by sanding just the last coat, it’s easier to sand the sealer coat because it’s thin.). – My YouTube Library: Chemical Strippers vs Heat Gun Dust Collection, Safety and Plant Operation, Job Opportunities and Woodworking Services, Pure tung oil can't provide high gloss, but modified tung oils or a topcoat over tung oil are options worth considering. Thanks again Leo. Rag: Scott® blue paper shop towels Brush: Natural white china bristle brush (thin coats only). Rubbing with an abrasive pad, with or without a lubricant, improves the feel and appearance, but it doesn’t remove the flaws; it just rounds them over and disguises them with fine scratches. 100% Upvoted. • Apply a third coat of oil and again sand wet. You have to make sure the oil has polymerized and there is enough of a finish on the piece, so 2 or 3 coats at least, I wait at least a week or better after the last coat before to buff the finish, that isn’t an oil anymore as it reacts with oxygen in the air and becomes a different material. Both will be hard work with lots of rubbing and time between coats. Apply a number of coats of finish and sand them after they harden to get a feel for how much sanding it takes to sand through. The Original Formula is a petroleum solvent and the Botanical is our proprietary citrus solvent, Di-Citrusol™ They can be used interchangeably. Hope that helps. If you are refinishing... Applicator Options. Bottom line is you’re buffing the topcoat, not the material under it. http://www.bealltool.com/pdfs/woodbuff.pdf, http://www.woodessence.com/SurBuf-Pads-P95.aspx, http://www.woodessence.com/Menzerna-...Paste-P91.aspx, http://www.woodessence.com/Mirka-Abr...-Pads-P72.aspx, https://www.facebook.com/Apex-Woodwo...0243458908979/, http://www.leevalley.com/en/Wood/pag...at=1,190,42942.